Port Augusta South Australia

Days 82 to 87

We traveled from Clare to Port Augusta and saw lots of changing scenery along the way. There were no more grape vines – and we saw lots more open fields with some sheep grazing. In many of the paddocks the sheep were eating scattered hay as there was not enough feed growing. It was also interesting to see all the old disused cottages on the farms. In NSW we would see corrugated iron and wood in a tumbled down state. In SA the old ramshackle cottages are stone.

Pipeline, train line and road. Often traveling companions.

An integral part of the scenery that has continued all the way through South Australia as we have traveled is the pipe that follows the road – it transports water from the Murray across a lot of SA. The annual average rainfall of much of SA is not enough for the towns to survive on. As we traveled from Morgan to Clare and then on the roads we have followed all the way to Whyalla we often had a water pipe following the road. This has been part of the Morgan to Whyalla pipeline taking water from the Murray which commenced in 1940. This pipeline is 379 km long and mainly above ground! A second pipeline was built in 1962.

Port Augusta was HOT when we arrived but the weather cooled down while we were there.
Sheena climbed the local water tower that has been converted to a lookout. The views were spectacular.

Water tower lookout Port Augusta

Spencer Gulf Port Augusta

Flinders Ranges

While in Port Augusta we did an eco cruise up the Spencer Gulf. We went up 10kms and it narrowed till it was about 10m wide. The boat was just able to turn around. It was a fascinating journey with beautiful scenery – red cliffs and sand-hills, green mangroves, Flinders Ranges outlook, frolicking dolphins (look on my facebook page for a video!), chirping birds, and even the meowing of a kitten that we rescued from the water under the bridge that joins east and west Port Augusta. It was a great 2hours!

Upper reaches of Spencer Gulf

Red Cliffs Spencer Gulf

Afterwards we headed off to the Australian Arid Lands Botanic Gardens – where there are lots of vegetation varieties all growing in sand. The day really showcased the area.

View of Port Augusta

View from Arid Lands Botanical Gardens

Part of the OneSteel Factory Whyalla

We also did a trip to Whyalla on the western shore of the Spencer Gulf. Whyalla is famous for boat building (no longer) and iron/steel production(continuing). We did a tour of the OneSteel Steelworks operation. It was very informative, however a little disappointing as we were not allowed to leave the bus (OH&S rules and regulations!).
We also did a wander around the coastal part of the town (in very windy conditions) which provided us with some exceptional views of the Spencer Gulf and the township of Whyalla.

Flinders and Freycinet sculptures Whyalla

Whilst in Whyalla we saw the largest landlocked ship in Australia! It was the first boat built there and it was returned as a tourist attraction when it was decommissioned and due to be ‘scrapped’. It was bought for $5000 and cost $500 000 to be relocated from the scrapyard! Luckily the local council got a grant from the federal government to cover this cost.

We did a day trip to Wilmington from Port Augusta exploring the area where Pete’s mum was born. We traveled through the southern end of the Flinders Ranges.

Local wildlife in the Wilmington area

Wilmington is a very tiny town but still had a great cafe that sold yummy Kanga sandwiches.

Pete outside Wilmington Hotel

The streets of Wilmington are named in a similar manner to many towns in SA. First, Second, Third etc. It makes it VERY easy to find your way around the town.

Wilmington Town map

We found a lovely pub in Melrose (oldest town in country SA) that did wine tastings! Of course we stopped!

On the way back we went via Port Germein Gorge and we walked the longest jetty in Australia at Port Germein (1.5km long!).

Peter on the Port Germein Jetty

Port Germein Jetty is 1500m long!

The scenery continues to be the highlight of our trip. The Flinders Ranges dominate the landscape in this whole area.

Flinders Ranges and Golf Course at Port Augusta

Of course we played golf at Port Augusta Golf Course. It was a fine golf course considering its location. The fairways were great to play off and even though the greens had just been verti-drained we enjoyed the challenge. And the result was good -a draw!

You don't want to be off the fairway at Port Augusta Golf Course!

Peter was chatting to a guy in the caravan park at Port Augusta who noticed the Port Macquarie Golf Club insignia on his shirt. He told Pete he came from Wauchope and played golf there. He said his partner played golf on Saturdays at Wauchope with the ladies. Wow!!! I had played with Giang in my last game at Wauchope! It is a small world.

Sheena and Giang at Port Augusta

Our next move is on to Cooper Pedy.

Lake Bonney and Clare SA

Days 73 to 81! Time is going quickly. We are now in South Australia.

BT 50 and caravan combo!

We travelled from Swan Hill to Mildura after checking if the van leaked. Stayed there overnight and then continued on to Barmera SA (near Renmark and still on the Murray)! We stayed at Lake Bonney Caravan Park for 4 days. While here the sun didn’t come up till 7!!! That’s why I was able to photograph the sunrise!!!!!

Sunrise at Lake Bonney Caravan Park

We played in a Par 3 comp at Berri. It was their ‘winter’ opening day and they changed the back 9 holes to all par 3s. It was fun to play and Sheena won the challenge match so the score is now Peter 11 Sheena 8.

On the road from Barmera to Berri we past the Berri Estates winery.  This is the largest winery in Australia.  Wine is fermented in the ‘silos’ that you see in this photo.

Berri Winery

Guess what!!!!!!! While in Berri the CAR broke down – we could not get it into 1st or reverse. The SA equivalent of the NRMA were called. Basically it was undriveable. We were across the road from Mazda in Berri – it was open and the owner was there! He gave us a loan car – it was a long weekend in SA so we did not find out what the problem was until Tue! The problem with the car was that a bolt in the gear selection mechanism had worked its way loose and then come off! It was a problem that should have been rectified in a recall BEFORE we owned the car! Anyway -it got fixed. The Mazda dealership in Berri were fantastic (lent us a car), as were the Premium Care people from NRMA.

Over the long weekend we went to the Banrock Station winery for lunch. Great outlook. They have a wetlands area there that was in its ‘dry’ phase. Apparently this is a necessary cycle for the flora and fauna of the wetlands area.

View of the wetlands area at Banrock Station

We attempted to fish at Lake Bonney BUT there were lots of carp and not much else. The long weekend crowd left the ones they caught dead on the bank (carp cannot be put back in the water, they have to be killed) – which stunk the area until they were buried.

We also played golf at Renmark – lovely course and we drew the match so result is still Peter 11 Sheena 8

Peter at Renmark Golf Course

We then traveled from Barmera to Clare (in the Clare Valley of course!) (MORE grape vines).

Clare Valley Grapes grapes and more grapes

We had a bit of a hiccup on the way, the car appeared to lose its power for the middle portion of the trip. Sheena went in to Mazda at Clare – getting to be a habit – and they had a look at it. They didn’t find anything wrong -this gave us a bit of piece of mind.

It rained the night we arrived in Clare so the leak was tested out- it appears to be gone (we hope).

We did a scenic drive around the Clare Valley. Visited a couple of wineries (of course). There are heaps of historic buildings in this area. Lots are still in use. The Sevenhills winery was a standout. It is the oldest in the area – some of the grape vines are over 90 years old – and still in use. They are handpicked whilst the newer vines are harvested mechanically.

Historic church at the 150 year old Sevenhill Cellars

90 year old grape vines at Sevenhills Cellars

Of course we played golf at Clare Golf Course. It was quite hilly with lots of unsighted holes but we enjoyed the course. Sheena came out in front in this match, so result is now PETER 11 SHEENA 9

A Par 3 at Clare Golf Course (an almost vertical hole!)

We also went looking for a lookout that we later found was on a track for vigorous walkers only! Peter, with all his fake joints made it!

Peter trekking thru the bush!! (silently cursing Sheena)

View of some of the many grape vines in the Clare Valley

We also spent a day at Burra, a historic copper mining town. The whole town has been heritage listed. There are heaps of historic buildings thru the town. The highlight was the old mine complex. The town of Burra evolved around the diggings for copper (which was found in 1845). The facade of the town was used in the filming of Breaker Morant.

Pump house Burra SA

Open cut mine at Burra SA

The old jail was an interesting visit. It was erected in 1856 and it morphed into a girl’s reformatory in 1897. The wall outlining the ailments of the prisoners and the reasons for internment were interesting (and humerous).

Take note of the Gunns!!!!

Doctors list of 'ailments'

Old version of barbed wire at Burra jail SA

Another facinating place we visited was Glendalough Estate. As well as a winery they have the world’s largest solar water farm. They have solar panels that are direct solar desalination units. Apparently they have lots of contracts overseas in many poor areas of the world (including on the Ganges changing its water into drinkable water!!!) but no interest from Australian government. Typical – a ground breaking process that is going offshore – and could be used in many remote communities in Australia.

Grapes and Solar panels that change poor water into pure

The Clare Valley area reminds me of the Hunter Valley – lots of boutique wineries to visit.

Swan Hill – Mildura – Swan Hill!!!

Things you see on the road!

We have been on the road for 59 days!!!

We travelled to Swan Hill. The GPS in car got us a bit lost – led us to a dirt road. Confusing!!! We had the air con looked at. Busted! What a time to happen! Temp was 39 max! We had numerous swims in the park pool – getting to be a habit to cool us down.

Golf is again on the agenda, with Japanese for dinner to follow! Predicted to be very hot! (with no AC!!!!)

Murray Downs Golf Course - one of the best we have played!!!! Peter won!

Murray Downs – great golf course! Probably the best we have played so far. Undulating fairways AND greens. Lots of bunkers including many in the fairways. The shape of the bunkers made lots of holes very picturesque. Water featured on quite a few of the holes as well. Peter played very well and had 40 points which won the comp. I started badly but finished with 20 points on the back nine. Peter has now won 9 in a row!! He is playing better golf than he has for ages! What a time for this to happen!

We spent another hot night with no AC!

Tooleybuc Golf Club - Peter won AGAIN!!

Went for a drive to Toolebuc and played the lovely little 9 hole course. It is on the Murray River.
Peter won AGAIN!!! We both played ok. Golf is now Peter 10 Sheena 7!!!!!

We stopped at a winery on the way! Of course!! Andrew Peace Winery – they export the majority of their wines. Over 400? million litres a year.

Andrew Peace Winery - all those white tanks are full of wine!! One of Australia's biggest exporters.

While at Swan Hill we had a new Air Conditioner put in!!!!! Wonderful. Got an Ibis which is better quality than the one we had that karked it. AND quieter.
We had lunch at Spoons Riverside Restaurant on the Murray. Lovely! Kangaroo Burger AND Yabby Pizza. Check out tne mirrors in the change rooms. The CARP in the river were very visible – it is sad how they have thrived in this river system – to the detriment of the natives.

Spoons Riverside Restaurant - on the Murray

Spoons Riverside Restaurant Mirror in the Ladies - look closely!!

Spoons Riverside Restaurant Mirror in the Mens - look closely!!

We had to move the van to get the AC put on. When we moved the van back to our site the shower tap was accidentally turned on unbeknownst to us! When we attached the water it let out water – we didn’t realise it was happening! Water poured out the back of the van and flooded the interior! By the time we were aware of the problem water was all thru the back of the van, including under the bed! 2 hours later, and lots of washing loads of soaked towels, things are almost back to normal. Did I say the AC is great!!!

The weather then took a turn for the worse. Much cooler with impending rain – we were very lucky getting the AC put in.

We moved on to Mildura – travelled there in the rain and set up the van in the rain! We tried out the heater in our new AC!! It worked great!

Mildura - view from the caravan. RAINING!!

We woke up to Peter’s pillow wet! Somehow water getting in through the window on Peter’s side. Problem solved during the day. Not sure?

Peter went to the doctor about his toe. Has been a problem since our first visit to Echuca when he stubbed his toe. Doctor sent him for xrays. Back to the doctor in the afternoon. Broken toe!!! Has to tape up and not walk much.

On Sheena’s birthday we played golf at Merbein – Peter won convincingly. Sheena not playing very well. Score is now Peter 11 Sheena 7!!!!!

Merbein Golf Course - Peter won AGAIN!

It continued raining but no flooding like in other parts of Victoria and NSW! We woke AGAIN to wet pillows -Sheena’s side as well. The window is leaking and we cannot work out WHY!

The next day – No rain! The leak in the window is minimal now. We went to markets at Red Cliffs. Nothing much there, however did some sightseeing in the area – Big Lizzy takes pride of place at the end of the main street.

Big Lizzie at Red Cliffs. Use to clear the Mallee!!! Huge!

Big Lizzie Info

We then went to look at the Red Cliffs on the Murray – this is how Red Cliffs got its name.

Red Cliffs - this is where Red Cliffs got its name!

On the way home I encouraged Peter to go looking for the Psyche Bend Pump Station. A steam driven pump that has been restored. Down a very muddy road we found it – closed! Car got a clean ASAP as getting its first service the next day.

Psyche Bend Pump Station - Mildura.

Road to the Psyche Bend Pump Station - it was closed!!!

Dirty Car - and the Pump Station was closed!!

We came home to do some washing as it was not raining AND found 1″ of water in the cupboard above the washing machine!!! So much for our little leak. Now we are totally bamboozled. We went to see the Gumbo Theatre Group – part of the Mildura Wentworth Arts Festival. They are a Japanese theatre group. Had a great night with Peter ending up on stage (as you can see in the photo)

Peter on stage - great show!!!!

We decided to go back to Swan Hill to see if the guys who did our AC can fix it (not sure if it was caused by putting the AC in?)

Lifting bridge at Swan Hill

The Murray River at Swan Hill

We hope it has been fixed – we are now on the road west again!!!!

Repairing the ?leak?

Sprinkler on the roof!!!!!!!!!!!!!!