Alice Springs to Katherine

Days 105 to 113.
Alice Springs to Katherine

Our first stop out of Alice Springs on the way north was Wycliffe Well – UFO capital of Australia!

Termite mound

On the way we passed  termite nests.  An interesting fact from Peter – the long walls of the nests face east/west so they reduce the sunlight on the nest which apparently enables them to have an even temp inside the nest!

We stopped at Aileron – there are giant statues of aboriginal man, woman and child, as well as some other interesting creatures!!!!

Aileron sculptures

We filled up here and got conned!  The price on the bowser changed when Pete picked up the handle.  It went from $2.069 to $2.139.  The guy in the shop said it was a fault and we had been charged the lower price – however when we checked on the calculator later that was not the case. (2 maths teachers did not pick it up!!!)

We passed through Ti Tree – in the middle of Australia pastoralists have developed a horticulture industry.  We passed grape vines (we would notice these!), mangoes and melons.

Wycliffe Well was disappointing.  There were no UFOs but we did find The Hulk!

The Incredible Hulk and friend!

The nearest we came to UFOs!

A typical evening on the road

Not much there and amenities not very good!  But met up with some couples we keep bumping into so company was good.

We moved on to Tennant Creek from Wycliffe Well.

On the way we went in to The Devils Marbles.  They are amazing structures.  Needless to say Sheena took lots of photos.

Devils Marbles

Devils Marbles

Devils Marbles

We arrived at Tennant Creek to drizzling rain.  We set up and then went to try to see the Battery Hill Mine – not open!  Went to the Nyinkka Nyunya Art and Cultural Centre.  It is the best Aboriginal heritage place we have been to! We did an audio tour that was very comprehensive and informative.  It really showcased the lives of the local indigenous people. 
We came back to the van after a downpour to find water on the floor – another leak! Or the same one still not fixed. We will have to investigate further in Darwin.

Daly Waters

From Tennant Creek we went on to Daly Waters.
We actually got up early and left at 7:30 – unheard of!
We had dinner at the Daly Waters Pub – Beef and Barra!  Was it worth the trip – oh yeah says Gunny.

At Daly Waters we did the history walk in reverse as we were not told where to start!  I think it would have been good done in the right direction.  We did learn a bit about John McDougall Stuart and his travels!

From Daly Waters Pub it was on to Mataranka.

We decided to stay at Mataranka Cabins and Camping near Bitter Springs.  At least the grass was green there! Amenities were not that great. We went for a float at both the Bitter Springs Thermal Pool and Mataranka Springs.  32 degrees.  Great!

Bitter Springs Mataranka

We saw our FIRST kangaroo since leaving Port at Mataranka! (well-a family of wallabies).  Apparently kangaroos do not breed in the good seasons, but breed prolifically in poor seasons – survival of the species.  Currently with all the rain we have had the seasons have been good for a while.

No swimming!!!

Nature!

Mataranka Falls

Sheena convinced Peter to do the walk to the Mataranka Falls – 8km!  The falls were small and we probably wouldn’t do the walk again.  But Sheena got some good photos.  We were not able to swim as the crocs had not been cleared out of the river yet! (we didn’t know this happened until we read the sign).  Apparently we are about 3 weeks early.

On the way we saw a turtle, a snake, a family of dingoes and some wallabies.  What an overload of nature!

Our next drive was from Mataranka to Katherine.

Katherine Gorge

Katherine Gorge

Spot the croc1!

Spot the croc2!

At Katherine we did the 2 gorges cruise.  Took loads of photos!  It was a great cruise – well worth the $$.
There were still crocs in the water so no swimming allowed (AGAIN). We did see 2 crocs while on the cruise! Double click on the 2 Spot the Croc photos and see if you can find them!!! When we returned to the park we swam in the caravan park pool instead.

We are very proud parents – Will won his first trainee tournament.  4 under par at Mount Broughton.

Edith Falls

We also went for a drive to Edith Falls.  Sheena was disappointed that she could not swim.  Again too early – water has not been cleared of salt water crocs.  The falls were pretty nice too look at – but apparently the top of the falls is great – but path closed.

We went to the School of the Air in Katherine.  It sounds like their delivery of Distance Education is pretty similar to my experience at Camden Haven.  More of the students who struggle are being enrolled because they have been removed from mainstream schooling for a variety of reasons.  It continues to be frustrating that each DE school appears to be spending time developing very similar resources.  Pete and I believe that with the national curriculum the federal government should be putting $ in to develop a skeleton resource (online delivery) that all the DE schools could then adapt for their students. This won’t happen as it is too sensible!!!!!

Katherine Hot Springs

We visited the Katherine Hot Springs.  It was not as hot as Mataranka, and so was more refreshing on a hot day.
Each night at Katherine has featured a lovely sunset!

Sunset at Katherine

Alice Springs

Days 98 to 104!!!!!  And we are still talking!!   

Aboriginal Training Cafe Alice Springs

When we arrived at Alice Springs we wandered around the township.  We had a great breakfast at Kwerralye Cafe – a training ground for Aboriginals.  It was great, best food by far on the trip! Mbantua Art Gallery and Cultural Museum is a must visit – a great hour spent!

Western MacDonnell Ranges

We did a trip to the Western Macdonald Ranges.  Who would believe that in the middle of Australia there are stunning mountain ranges.

Ormiston Gorge near Alice

Ormiston Gorge waterhole

Ormiston Gorge walk

Ormiston Gorge was a stand out – it had a lovely waterhole and in the 39 degrees was a great place for a dip. We also did the walk up to the lookout.

Ochre Pits near Alice

We went to the Ochre Pits. It was interesting and the colours stunning.

Standley Chasm

Sheena did the walk up to Standley Chasm – worth it!

Alice Springs Golf course

Alice Springs Golf Course vista! MacDonnell Ranges in the background

Before our 4 days of golf we practiced at the driving range – in 39 degrees! The practice didn’t help our golf!  We were teamed with 2 locals for the Ambrose.  Thoroughly enjoyed the day and the course but did not feature in the winners.  The temperature was a bit lower for the next 3 days.  It was comfortable playing. Without giving too much away about our poor golf! The challenge score now after Alice is Peter 11 Sheena 10.

Golf Buggy!!!! Envious!! Alice Springs

Alice Springs is a lovely course but it has very difficult greens.  They are hard, so balls don’t stop most of the time AND there are bunkers covering the fronts of the greens so running the ball up onto the green is not an option.  Also the greens are very undulating so placement is important.  Alice is a Peter Thompson designed course.  Peter reckons he had a migraine when he designed it.  However, it is a challenge and Sheena would like to play it again.

Once the golf was over we then looked north.  Where to stop next is our question?

Uluru and Kings Canyon

Days 93 to 97

Uluru colours

Uluru colours

Uluru colours

Uluru colours

Uluru colours

Uluru colours

Uluru colours

Uluru colours

We travelled from Erldunda to Yulara, settled in at the Ayers Rock Resort and then went for a drive to Uluru (15 km away). We walked around the Cultural Centre which is well worth the visit. We then drove around the rock – it is impressive from every angle. Sheena drove back later to view the changing colours of the rock at sunset. Even in the middle of the day the red colouring kept changing and the rock displayed a different face as the shadows moved.
At Uluru we did a walk to a waterhole at the base of the rock. There was lots of information about plants, animals and the Aboriginal way of life given along the walk. We were both impressed with the way that Uluru has been showcased to the public.

View of part of Uluru

River red gum at Uluru!

Beautiful chairs to rest on at Uluru

We also went out to “Kata Tjuta” (The Olgas) and took lots of photos.

The Olgas

Lots of foreign visitors - they need reminding!!

Steps to get to the rim walk at Kings Canyon

We then travelled to Kings Canyon (250km from Uluru) and stayed a couple of nights. While there we did a one hour walk along the base of the canyon. Lovely views and again lots of information to read as you walk.
We also drove to Kathleen Springs and did a walk along the gorge to the spring. Interesting historical info re droving of cattle – the gorge was fenced off so cattle could not get out.

Kings Canyon colour

Kings Canyon colour

Kings Canyon colour

It is disappointing that our main memory of Kings Canyon is the cold showers and diesel being $2.33 a litre!!

Our next stop is Alice Springs!

Coober Pedy

Days 88 to 92

Lake Hart between Port Augusta and Coober Pedy

We travelled from Port Augusta to Coober Pedy, which was a 7 hour drive with stops.  After a while the scenery becomes the same! Arid landscape prevailed!  Interestingly it was sometimes saltbush only and at other times trees were spread thickly among the saltbush.  We passed a few salt lakes and billabongs and also a couple of lakes with water in them.

Desert Landscape

Desert Cave Hotel Coober Pedy

Part of Coober Pedy main street at sunset

In Coober Pedy Pete and I did a wander around the main street.  I drooled over some lovely opal jewellery – everything I liked was VERY expensive. I was also reminded by Pete of the need to keep opal dry – very difficult for me as I would want to wear the bracelet or ring all the time.  I think I will stick to diamonds.
Most of the buildings above ground in Coober Pedy are quite ramshackle except for the Desert Cave Hotel.  It has a very impressive design that would fit in anywhere. We dropped in for a cup of coffee and a look at the jewellery (everyone in town has a jewellery counter except for the food and alcohol shops). The view of the town from The Big Winch Lookout showcased the area.  The dryness was very evident. As was the number of underground dwellings in the township.  We went on a self guided tour around the Old Timers Mine.  It was well worth the $15 fee. We also went next door and walked through the Revival Underground Church. It turns out that one of the ministers from Port Macquarie was a founding pastor of the church!

Naming of Coober Pedy - amusing!

Desert environment with water course

Cattle on Anna Creek Station (2 per sq km - they don't use hectares, too small!)

Grapes in the Red Centre!!!

Ruin next to Old Ghan Track

Pink Roadhouse Oodnadatta

Anna Creek Station

Brown snake on Oodnadatta track

Can you say this name?

Water near Coober Pedy

William Creek Town sign

Ceiling of William Creek Pub

The Dingo Fence

A highlight of the visit was doing the mail run from Coober Pedy. It was well over 600 km and 12 hours of diverse country.  We travelled over gibber plains, saw lots of red sand hills and drove through 120 million year old in-land sea beds. Because it was the mail run we had to deliver mail! On the trip we detoured into 4 cattle stations, one of which is the world’s largest (the size of Belgium!). In fact for a large part of our journey we were travelling through Anna Creek Station. At William Creek we stopped at the pub for an Emu Pie! We travelled part of the Oodnadatta track – a very popular 4wd drive. Pete and I both said that 4wd trips were not something we would do on our own, and that the mail run trip was enough of a taster to satisfy us.  It was great to have the mailman giving us a running commentary about history, nature, scenery.  We did detours across country to places that we would not know were there if we were on our own.   We even found grapes in the outback!!!! Great stuff! At our stop at Oodnadatta we visited the FAMOUS Pink Roadhouse!  I really don’t know how people can live in such isolated places! We travelled through the world’s longest man-made structure – the Dingo fence at 5300 km (longer than the Great Wall of China). This fence separates sheep and cattle country. The track follows the Old Ghan Train line.  Sheena travelled on this in 1978! We learned that the Oodnadatta Track follows the old Aboriginal trading route. There had been rain in the area in the past 2 weeks and it was evident.  There was not the obvious RED centre.  Many parts were green! Except for the Moon Plain outside Coober Pedy – it was still grey!

Sunset over Moon Plains

Serbian Orthodox Church Coober Pedy

While in Coober Pedy we visited 2 more churches.  The Catacomb Church is cut out of the sandstone in the shape of a cross.  The Serbian Orthodox Church has a striking scalloped ceiling and brilliant stained glass windows.  All the churches were unstaffed and allowed visitors to walk in whenever they like. The only church that required an entrance fee was the Serbian Orthodox!  A donation at the others if you wished.

Revival Underground Church Coober Pedy

Did I say flies were a problem?

Coober Pedy Golf Course!  It wasn’t played by us due to the heat and FLIES (they were everywhere!!!). We were very impressed with the layout.  From the first tee we counted 12 holes in view, winding around some mining areas.  It is very well put together.  White Crushed rocked fairways and black oiled sand greens.

Coober Pedy Golf Course

Crocodile Harry's

Faye's underground house

We also visited Crocodile Harry’s.  Mad Max 3 was filmed in Harry’s dugout.  Some people in this area seem to have a thing with sticking things on the ceiling, and writing and drawing on the walls.  Very evident in this mine!

The visit to Faye’s Underground Home was possibly the highlight – well worth the $5 fee.  This home was dug out by Faye Naylor and 2 lady friends using a pick and shovel.  It comes complete with an indoor swimming pool!

Coober Pedy landscape

Scenery outside Coober Pedy

Entering the Northern Territory

NT Speed limit!

We then traveled from Coober Pedy to Erldunda which is the “dead centre of Australia” (fold the map of Australia into 4 and see where you are – Erldunda!). On the way out of Coober Pedy we were amazed at the landscape – pile after pile of dirt up to 30 km out of town! Erldunda is in the Northern Territory. Check out the speed limit sign!!! And the road train – regular visitors on the roads here.

Road train